Númenórean Riding Dress

 

This dress was inspired by a tiny picture I saw in Vanity Fair magazine- a miniature screen shot from the movie House of Flying Daggers that didn't even show the whole costume.  I never saw that costume in any other picture, and never got around to seeing the movie... so I can't even say how my version differs from that one!  A lot, I'm guessing...



The only element in this dress that I'm fairly certain was in the HoFD costume is the slits up the side trimmed with a wide ribbon.  The same wide ribbon runs around the neckline, down the front, and around the entire hem- 10 metres in all.  I knew this ribbon (and that quantity at a reasonable price) would be the hardest thing to find, so I went out looking for it first and planned to get fabric to match whatever ribbon I could find.  The ribbon turned out to be the best buy ever- 97 cents per metre at Wal-Mart, and they had exactly 9.9 metres left between two spools!  Black, red and greenish-gold Chinese brocade ribbon, just over an inch and a half wide.  That same day, I took the ribbon to the fabric store and matched it up with the gold crushed satin.  The gold was a fairly good match for the green-gold in the ribbon, and made a really nice contrast with the black.  That was the second great find.  The crushed gold was a drapery fabric, double-wide, AND on sale for $4.99.  All my spending that day added up to about $35 for both ribbon and fabric.  Everything else for this costume (hook and eye tape for the front closure, canvas and boning for the corset, green organza for the sleeves) I already had at home.



The original design I had in mind was a dress with short cap sleeves, to which were attached long, floor-length tube-like sleeves made of chiffon.  But once I had cut out the pattern pieces for the dress, I still had more than enough fabric left to do something bigger and better.  I used the same sleeve pattern as I did for my Celebrían dress to make the full sleeves that are more typically seen on LotR movie costumes.  But the satin alone looked a bit bare, so I added an inner sleeve of some dark green organza I had originally bought for my Finrod costume but never ended up using.  The organza acts as a lining to the not-so-exciting satin interior, and gives the sleeve a more interesting and finished look.



I decided to call this costume "Númenórean" because it has a built-in corset and bodice lining.  It's an Elvish kind of style, but since I can't picture Elves wearing corsets, I went with the next closest culture.  I can picture Númenóreans having both an Elvish-inspired fashion sense AND wearing corsets.  The "riding dress" part comes from the fact that it's not a full dress- it's an overdress to be worn with either pants (as in the above picture with Finrod's gold pants) or a skirt.  It fastens up the front from just below the waist to the neckline, leaving the lower front open, and also is slit up the sides; it's as practical as any full-length gown with enormous sleeves can be for activities like riding!

In the pictures of me in the dress, I've tied a piece of the black brocade ribbon (found a few months later after Wal-Mart had time to restock) around my waist as a sort of belt.  My plan is to make an actual belt thing to wear with this dress, from a piece of red Chinese brocade that has the same floral pattern as the ribbon, but on a red background.  Whether or not it looks any better than a piece of ribbon tied around my waist... we'll see.  Red might not work.  I'm still looking for a black fabric of the same pattern as the ribbon, but no luck so far.