Body Block Construction
| In the first construction/design
class I ever took at university, we received these instructions on how
to make a perfectly fitted body block- a blueprint of your upper body.
This is, hands down, the most useful thing I ever learned about costuming.
I've looked around the internet for the same or similar instructions
and haven't found them anywhere, so I'm putting them up here for everyone's
benefit. It takes some time, so give yourself a good hour or two. And
it's easier to have a friend help you take the measurements. But when
you're done, you'll come out with a pattern that will fit you perfectly.
The pattern is in the shape of a vest, but you can use it as a starting
point for a bodice, gown, coat, etc.. For the female body block instructions, click here. Right click on the link to save to your computer. Instructions are in a print-ready PDF file. For the male body block instructions, click here. About the measurements: Please forgive my awful Microsoft Paint drawings, but they're the best I can do for now to illustrate where and how to measure. Maybe one of these days I'll take actual photos. These are the fairly straightforward measurements: 
Back measurements. You'll need a friend to help with these. For the narrow back, measure across your back from the top of one underarm crease to the other. Don't actually measure from under the arm- just push the ends of the measuring tape slightly into the crease where the arm meets the body. 
The arm hole depth is the one that requires two measuring tapes and a friend to help you. If you only have one measuring tape, use it in the RED position shown below. A piece of string can take the place of the blue line. Place the end of both measuring tapes, at 90 degree angles to each other, at the top of the back/bottom of neck, where you started your back length measurement. (right on that prominent spinal bone). One (red) will hang straight down, while the other (blue) loops around the front of the shoulder and comes out under the arm. Pull the blue tape snugly, but not too tight, under the arm and straight across the back so it intersects the red tape at a right angle. The measurement you want is from the point at the top of the back where the red tape begins down to where the two tapes intersect (usually around 8 or 9 inches). 
Now that
you have your measurements, you can start drafting your block.
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